For the regulars who follow my musings, my love affair with tea is no secret. It’s not just a daily ritual; it’s a cherished part of my social fabric, a thread that weaves together moments of connection and conversation with friends. Tea, to me, is far more than a simple brew of hot leaf – infused water. It’s a portal to a world where time slows down, where meaningful exchanges unfold, and where the essence of friendship truly blossoms.
When I embark on travels, my search for teahouses takes precedence over hunting for restaurants or planning activities. Yet, the world of teahouses is a challenging one. Running a profitable teahouse is no easy feat, which is why they are a rarity in most cities. China stands as an exception, a land where teahouses seem to thrive in every nook and cranny.
In my eyes, a great teahouse is a harmonious blend of three elements: exceptional tea, an inviting environment, and warm, wonderful people. Unlike in other businesses, I often find myself forming connections with the folks who run or work at teahouses. Whether it’s the unique personalities drawn to the tea world or the very nature of the space that fosters these bonds, I’m not entirely sure, but the result is always a memorable experience.
Having visited over a hundred teahouses across the globe, I’m eager to share the ones that have truly stolen my heart and stand head and shoulders above the rest.
Zhao Zhou, Budapest
Europe, generally speaking, isn’t known for its tea culture. Many major cities lack outstanding teahouses, but Budapest is a glorious outlier. The story goes that in the 1970s, a place called The Red Lion opened, sparking an interest in tea among the locals. Unfortunately, my visit to The Red Lion was a letdown, but it did give rise to a new generation of remarkable teahouses in the city, with Zhao Zhou reigning supreme.
Zhao Zhou is, without a doubt, my favorite teahouse in the world. Its tea selection is a marvel, boasting both breadth and depth. Even when I’ve sampled teas that aren’t typically my style, like a dark roasted oolong, I’ve been impressed by their quality and authenticity. Specializing in Chinese teas, they also offer an excellent range of Japanese teas. Their collection of Phoenix Dancong teas is a particular highlight, and their puerh selection is simply unparalleled.
Rather than trying to navigate the extensive menu on my own, I’ve learned to trust the recommendations of the owners. Time and time again, their suggestions have left me delighted. Over the years, I’ve had the pleasure of getting to know these two wonderful people and have formed a genuine friendship with them. Their warmth and kindness are as inviting as the tea they serve, and spending time with them is one of the highlights of my visits to Budapest.
The space itself is a work of art. Beautifully designed and situated right beside the Danube River, it offers a serene and picturesque setting. On my days in Budapest, it’s not uncommon for me to spend 3 – 4 hours there, whether I’m sipping tea, catching up with friends, or working on my laptop. Among all the places I visit outside my home, Zhao Zhou makes me feel the most at ease, like a home away from home. In fact, my admiration for Zhao Zhou is so profound that I’ve even considered investing in it, not for financial gain, but for the sheer pride of being associated with such an exceptional establishment.
Té Company, New York City
New York City is a bustling metropolis filled with endless activities, but if I had to choose just one, it would be a visit to Té Company. I vividly remember my first visit, being immediately captivated by what I found.
Oolong tea, especially Taiwanese oolong, is not as mainstream as green or black tea. So, imagine my surprise when I discovered this tiny tea shop in the heart of one of the most expensive cities in the world, dedicated primarily to Taiwanese oolong teas. I was in awe of the owners’ courage to open such a specialized shop. And when I saw the relatively affordable prices, I admit I was skeptical about the quality of the tea. But one sip was all it took to prove me wrong. The teas at Té Company are some of the finest Taiwanese oolongs I’ve ever tasted.
Run by a passionate couple, Elena, a Taiwanese tea expert, and Frederico, an elite chef, Té Company offers a unique experience. Frederico’s tea snacks are a culinary delight, with the pineapple linzer cookies being a personal favorite. They’re a creative take on traditional Taiwanese pineapple cakes, a sweet treat that perfectly complements the teas.
The shop itself is small and often crowded, but I’m always willing to wait for a table. Just like at Zhao Zhou, I’ve learned to trust the quality of their offerings. So, I usually simply pick three random teas and share the experience with a friend. I’ve even subscribed to their monthly tea subscription, a testament to the consistently high quality of their products.
Yakumo Saryo, Tokyo
The story behind Yakumo Saryo is a bit of a mystery to me, but I do know that it’s the creation of the renowned Japanese designer Shinchiro Ogata. Among the several tea and tea sweet shops he has built around Tokyo, Yakumo Saryo stands out as a true masterpiece.
Yakumo Saryo serves some of the most exquisite Japanese teas I’ve ever had the pleasure of tasting. The employees, trained by actual Japanese tea masters, bring a level of expertise and precision to the tea – making process that is truly remarkable. I had the opportunity to get to know one of the employees, and when I discovered that she studied Urasenke, the traditional Japanese tea ceremony, I was amazed to learn of her high level of expertise. It’s clear that the dedication and training here are on a whole other level.
This excellence is evident in every aspect of the Yakumo Saryo experience. The teahouse, set amidst a beautiful tea garden, offers stunning views of trees and meticulously landscaped grounds. A single pot of gyokuro is prepared with care in a handmade pot and served in three different cups for optimal steeping, each cup a work of art in itself.
Their Goshincha service, a take on afternoon tea, is an absolute highlight. Initially, I was hesitant due to the price tag of $75 – 80, but one experience was all it took to convince me that it was a steal. The service features four or five expertly prepared teas, perfectly paired with an array of snacks, including tea sweets, sushi, and homemade pickles. Unfortunately, its popularity has soared, and getting a reservation these days is no easy task.
While these three teahouses hold a special place in my heart, there are countless others that deserve recognition. Samovar in San Francisco, though now closed, holds a dear place in my memories. It was not only the place that deepened my love for tea but also the very spot where I met my entire friend group in the city. In Tokyo, all of Shinchiro Ogata’s other establishments are worth a visit, with Higashi – ya Ginza being a personal favorite. Ippodo in Tokyo, Marukyu – koyamaen in Kyoto, and many others around the world offer unique and wonderful tea experiences.
My ultimate dream is to one day own a teahouse, to create a space where others can enjoy the same kind of magical experiences I’ve had in these exceptional places. But I’m well aware of the challenges that come with the tea business. Having befriended many teahouse owners over the years, I know how crucial aspects like online sales and restaurant – style offerings can be. Until I reach a point where I’m truly indifferent to potential losses, I’ll have to put this dream on hold. For now, I’ll continue to explore the world’s teahouses, savoring every cup and cherishing the memories they create.
